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Monday 14 March 2016

Completed garment: Colette Moneta number 3

I've had a good couple of weeks, but not much has been sewn. Which does make me a bit sad. But I have finally started a garment project again. Yay! It's not for me though, it's for my husband - a Thread Theory Goldstream Peacoat. I will post separately about it soon, because it is a BIG project. It's going well so far and I'm enjoying the process of sewing for someone else too, which has surprised me a little! Today I've got a familiar pattern to talk about, with a few tweaks...

Apologies for the dark photos - they were taken a few weeks ago when the UK was experiencing endless cloud! The weather seams to have got a lot brighter and the longer daylight hours are very welcome!

Pattern
I've made another Colette Moneta dress AND it's another blue one! This is the third time I've made it & in this colour. I am really going to have to make it in another colour soon.
Colette Moneta dress
Fabric
A slubby bluey-purple (in the right light) jersey from Barry's in Birmingham. This was purchased at the SewBrum meet up in October last year. I think I can remember insisting it was purple at the time, but I concede that it is more blue than purple! I think I have enough left over to make a top too. I can't remember how much it cost, maybe around £5-6 /m but I might be telling fibs!

Alterations
I had already adjusted this pattern on my previous iterations - an FBA of sorts using Miss Makes tutorial. 

This time round I did a hollow chest adjustment too which involves making a tuck along the widest part of the neckline; the tuck I made is around 1/8" at the neckline tapering to nothing at the armhole.

I have also lowered the neckline somewhat! By 13 cm.  I did this purely by holding up the pattern piece against myself & marking where I thought I'd like the neckline to land. It's just a little too low actually, but an easy thing to fix for next time. A lower neckline does suit me better I think. 

Construction 
I didn't include the collar and this is the sleeveless version. It is self lined.

When making a lined, sleeveless version you need sew the shell and lining together at the neckline first, then the armholes. Of course, I forgot to do this and then had to wrangle with the neck to get it to sew up. It wasn't too much of a problem, but it added time on to what should have been a quick make.

And speaking of time consuming activities. I didn't enjoy unpicking the clear elastic sheering on the skirt twice before the gathers were even! I think I'm never going to 'get' this step. I have to attempt it at least three times before I manage to get the gathering even every time I make it. I either pull the elastic too tight, or not enough as I sew or a combination of both. I know that I'm not the only one who has a problem with this bit of the construction, which makes me feel better! So the next time I make it, I will be changing how I sew this or not making a gathered skirt at all. Having said that, it's all neat and tidy now and looks absolutely fine, I was just cursing quite a lot at the time!

Love
It's such a comfortable dress to wear. The fabric is a lovely and I have already worn it a lot. I really like wearing my Papercut Coppelia Cardy with it.
Moneta and Coppelia - I love this combo

Changes
Raise the neckline by 2.5cm on my next make.

Lengthen the bodice by about 5cm so that the dress waistline hits me at my waistline. I've been doing this on other patterns and I get a much better fit.

Take it in a pinch at the top of the bodice side seams. 

Finally
Apart from the coat I think I need to get on with my spring sewing, I've got plans for an Agnes top, so when I get a little bored with the coat I might have a go at that.

Happy sewing x

7 comments:

  1. I have trouble with gathering the waist as well. How will you tackle that the next time? I was thinking of just gathering it the old fashion way but I'm not sure if it needs to be reinforced with elastic to make the garment last.

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    Replies
    1. Hi, I thought I might gather it first, then apply elastic (so it can stretch as I wear). But also just found this tutorial https://indiesew.com/blog/how-to-gather-knits-elastic-method
      So I might gather the front & back skirts separately & then sew the side seams together, then attach to the bodice. Tutorial also suggests using more pins & fold over elastic, so I will give that ago I think. Thanks, I do love wearing it:)

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    2. Hi, I thought I might gather it first, then apply elastic (so it can stretch as I wear). But also just found this tutorial https://indiesew.com/blog/how-to-gather-knits-elastic-method
      So I might gather the front & back skirts separately & then sew the side seams together, then attach to the bodice. Tutorial also suggests using more pins & fold over elastic, so I will give that ago I think. Thanks, I do love wearing it:)

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    3. Thank you! Will have a look at the link and give it a go myself maybe! All the best with the next one. :)

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  2. Oh forgot to add - Lovely dress btw!!! Looks really nice on you!!😊

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  3. Love it - looks gorgeous. And glad to hear the peacoat sewing is going well!

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Charlotte! Just going to steam my fabric and get cutting eekk! Looks like you're having a fab time in NY! xx

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