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Friday 26 February 2016

Papercut Coppelia Cardy

Hi there, I'm playing catch up with my blog again! This was made in October last year, so I'm way behind. Decorating the living room, Christmas and illness have played a part, as well as bad light and pure laziness from me in the photo department! Blogging mojo has returned and this cardy is first up.

Pattern
Coppelia by Papercut is a ballet style wrap top. With raglan sleeves there are two variations to make - either a cropped cardy with wrap-around ties, or a full length top which is joined at the side seams. I have now made both variations. But I will start with the wrap-around cropped version first. The pattern instructions were simple yet clear.

Fabric
I bought this blue bamboo jersey from The Sewing Cafe, Hinckley. I bought it to match a circle skirt I was making (which did not work out - but that's another story!). It was a little expensive, I can't remember exactly how much, but it is lovely to touch, so soft! I do feel like a bit of a fool for using this fabric for my first attempt at a pattern. I really should have bought something cheaper to try it on as it's not perfect, but never mind. I'm getting wear out of it, so that's what counts!

Alterations
I didn't make any adjustments to the pattern - I just cut a medium size all over. I had read about other blogger's issues with the generous amount of ease along the seam of the front raglan and the underarm & indeed I did encounter a similar issue and just overlocked it out as I went. See these posts from Lauren of Lladybird who has made this top quite a few times and Diary of a Chain Stitcher's Fiona's post was super helpful too.

Construction 
The pattern was fairly straight forward to construct. However, my fabric was an issue in the construction process. It's like sewing a trampoline - so flippin' bouncy! The overlocker was useful, but I really wish I had sewed this using a walking foot. Alas, I didn't have one at the time, but have since upgraded my machine and a walking foot was included as a free accessory. It would have been particularly useful when topstitching the wrap tie to the bodice. I wanted so desperately to give up on this top at that point, because I was literally having to stop every few stitches to re-adjust the fabric so that it didn't creep out of line. But I persisted and it was then I declared I wanted a new machine for Christmas! Perhaps a slightly cheaper option might have been to use some stay tape, but I have only just thought of that (haha, best not tell my husband who purchased the new machine!)!

As I said above I removed excess ease out of the sleeve-underarm-side seam area as I went, and also at the raglan seam.  


I did also mess up a bit on my first attempt at sewing the neckband to the bodice. My second attempt I pulled the neckband a bit tighter as I sewed (again - this is recommended by quite a few other sewists) and worked nicely. There are a few small gathers, but when the top is worn it's less noticeable and the neckband sits flat against my neck.


Love
I do love the style of the top. And it goes really nicely with a dress/ fuller skirt. 

Changes
I'd alter the flat pattern to take some ease out of the lower back.
Amend the pattern to take out some of the ease along the side seams and sleeves.
The sleeves are a bit long, perhaps shorten by an inch. 


I'm pleased with this top despite it not being totally perfect, so I will make it again as a wrap top. It's quite a versatile piece to have in my wardrobe and I've worn it quite a lot over this Moneta (the third I've made) dress. 

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