Sunday, 9 November 2014

Just one Sorbetto, give it to me...(or maybe two!)

It's been a long old week and a busy weekend. The little 'uns stayed up late on Wednesday night to watch a firework display (which was fab!), but it meant that they didn't sleep very well and were up very early on Thursday morning and I didn't manage to get back to sleep. And I need my sleep! We've also started to redecorate our bedroom, which actually means we're pulling plaster off walls, ripping up laminate flooring and generally making mess! But never mind that, I've got two tops to write about!

I know that the Colette Sorbetto tank top pattern has been out for sometime, but this newbie to clothes patterns can't resist a freebie! Now it's actually been a while since I started making the first one. In fact, it was August! Which feels like an absolute age ago, especially considering it's November now, but I'm quite slow at making stuff because I only really get the evenings to do 'me' things in (although that is changing a bit now that my wonderful mum is having the boys for a day a week).
Anyway, after downloading, printing, cutting and sticking the pattern together I traced off the pattern (on to baking paper of all things!) so that I had the original in one piece (I hate printing stuff out, especially if I've already done it once).

I bought a beautiful turquoise floral print cotton fabric, very summery and quite thin, but not very drapey, that I thought would work well for this pattern. I reviewed the sizes and cut at a size 10 and followed the instructions. I thought they were very clear and easy to understand. Even the stage where the bias binding (which I am proud to have made myself for the first time!) is attached it was very simple to get to grips with. I have since discovered a lovely bias binding gadget which folds the fabric for you so you can iron it without burning yourself - definitely going on my Christmas List in a variety of sizes!

As I said, the make up of the top is very straightforward. On trying on the top however I found the length of the top way too short. I remedied this by attaching a thick bias binding style hem which matches in with the pleat on the sorbetto.

I am fairly pleased with the top overall, however, the armholes feel a little high and the bust darts are way, way, way too high on me. I do have a fuller bust than most, and usually compensate by buying a larger size. But surely the point of sewing your own clothes is to get the perfect fit and not to compensate, but to adjust! So as the top didn't look right, I decided to make another!! And because I wasn't entirely happy with the fit on me I gave the top away to me sister, who looks really great in it:) - hence there are no photos of me wearing it.

Sorbetto take two.
I used a much more drapey fabric for this version, and it's a pattern and fabric that's a bit more in keeping with the change of season to Autumn. It was more difficult to sew than the first, probably because of the drapiness! I cut an 8 this time. But also moved the armhole down (grading it to a size 14) and lowered the neckline by an inch. I also added two inches to the hemline.

After doing some reading about full bust adjustments (FBA), and more specifically other reviews about the Sorbetto, I decided to lower the bust dart, rather than do a FBA. One tutorial I found really useful is this one by Andrea Schewe. It's explained well and has lots of helpful photos. Briefly, because I didn't take photos of what I was doing (much to engaged in what I was actually engaged in to take some!), I held the pattern (with my changes) up to myself and marked on my bust apex. I then placed this pattern paper back over the orginal pattern that I had printed out (so glad I didn't cut into this!) and looked at the differences. The new apex was an inch below the original. I marked on where I wanted the dart to finish (1 inch immediately to the left of the new apex). I then moved my pattern so that the new dart end lined up with the dart I wanted to use on the original pattern and traced these lines onto my pattern. I grabbed another piece of baking paper and taped this to the side of my pattern and drew in the new seam line. I wasn't sure it would work, but you don't get anywhere unless you try...

I do think it worked well! The dart is now positioned in the correct place for me. The armhole feels better and I do prefer the slightly lower neckline. My sewing on the bias binding could have been a little neater, but I think I also need to start with a neater finished bias binding tape! I used French seams and I love the finish this gives to the insides. They were really very simple to do in this garment and as I don't own an overlocker I'm going to do French seams wherever I can!

I think I might even have been able to get away with a smaller size again, looking at some of these photos, it looks a little large across my shoulders and upper back. I would also recommend adding 3-4 inches to the hem, I prefer my tops longer so that there's no chance my mummy tummy will be seen!

I think I'm almost always going to be doing an adjustment of some sort to a pattern - I just have 'that' type of body shape that doesn't conform. It's a great way of learning and picking up information though! And one thing is for certain, the sewing blogging comminuty is an awesome place to pick up tips and tricks! So I'm on the hunt for more ways to adjust - have you got any tips to share? Any great tutorials to point me in the direction of? Let me know below!

No comments:

Post a Comment