Just one Sorbetto, give it to me...(or maybe two!)

It's been a long old week and a busy weekend. The little 'uns stayed up late on Wednesday night to watch a firework display (which was fab!), but it meant that they didn't sleep very well and were up very early on Thursday morning and I didn't manage to get back to sleep. And I need my sleep! We've also started to redecorate our bedroom, which actually means we're pulling plaster off walls, ripping up laminate flooring and generally making mess! But never mind that, I've got two tops to write about!

I know that the Colette Sorbetto tank top pattern has been out for sometime, but this newbie to clothes patterns can't resist a freebie! Now it's actually been a while since I started making the first one. In fact, it was August! Which feels like an absolute age ago, especially considering it's November now, but I'm quite slow at making stuff because I only really get the evenings to do 'me' things in (although that is changing a bit now that my wonderful mum is having the boys for a day a week).

Anyway, after downloading, printing, cutting and sticking the pattern together I traced off the pattern (on to baking paper of all things!) so that I had the original in one piece (I hate printing stuff out, especially if I've already done it once).

I bought a beautiful turquoise floral print cotton fabric, very summery and quite thin, but not very drapey, that I thought would work well for this pattern. I reviewed the sizes and cut at a size 10 and followed the instructions. I thought they were very clear and easy to understand. Even the stage where the bias binding (which I am proud to have made myself for the first time!) is attached it was very simple to get to grips with. I have since discovered a lovely bias binding gadget which folds the fabric for you so you can iron it without burning yourself - definitely going on my Christmas List in a variety of sizes!

As I said, the make up of the top is very straightforward. On trying on the top however I found the length of the top way too short. I remedied this by attaching a thick bias binding style hem which matches in with the pleat on the sorbetto.

I am fairly pleased with the top overall, however, the armholes feel a little high and the bust darts are way, way, way too high on me. I do have a fuller bust than most, and usually compensate by buying a larger size. But surely the point of sewing your own clothes is to get the perfect fit and not to compensate, but to adjust! So as the top didn't look right, I decided to make another!! And because I wasn't entirely happy with the fit on me I gave the top away to me sister, who looks really great in it:) - hence there are no photos of me wearing it.

Sorbetto take two.

I used a much more drapey fabric for this version, and it's a pattern and fabric that's a bit more in keeping with the change of season to Autumn. It was more difficult to sew than the first, probably because of the drapiness! I cut an 8 this time. But also moved the armhole down (grading it to a size 14) and lowered the neckline by an inch. I also added two inches to the hemline.

After doing some reading about full bust adjustments (FBA), and more specifically other reviews about the Sorbetto, I decided to lower the bust dart, rather than do a FBA. One tutorial I found really useful is this one by Andrea Schewe. It's explained well and has lots of helpful photos. Briefly, because I didn't take photos of what I was doing (much to engaged in what I was actually engaged in to take some!), I held the pattern (with my changes) up to myself and marked on my bust apex. I then placed this pattern paper back over the orginal pattern that I had printed out (so glad I didn't cut into this!) and looked at the differences. The new apex was an inch below the original. I marked on where I wanted the dart to finish (1 inch immediately to the left of the new apex). I then moved my pattern so that the new dart end lined up with the dart I wanted to use on the original pattern and traced these lines onto my pattern. I grabbed another piece of baking paper and taped this to the side of my pattern and drew in the new seam line. I wasn't sure it would work, but you don't get anywhere unless you try...

I do think it worked well! The dart is now positioned in the correct place for me. The armhole feels better and I do prefer the slightly lower neckline. My sewing on the bias binding could have been a little neater, but I think I also need to start with a neater finished bias binding tape! I used French seams and I love the finish this gives to the insides. They were really very simple to do in this garment and as I don't own an overlocker I'm going to do French seams wherever I can!

I think I might even have been able to get away with a smaller size again, looking at some of these photos, it looks a little large across my shoulders and upper back. I would also recommend adding 3-4 inches to the hem, I prefer my tops longer so that there's no chance my mummy tummy will be seen!

I think I'm almost always going to be doing an adjustment of some sort to a pattern - I just have 'that' type of body shape that doesn't conform. It's a great way of learning and picking up information though! And one thing is for certain, the sewing blogging comminuty is an awesome place to pick up tips and tricks! So I'm on the hunt for more ways to adjust - have you got any tips to share? Any great tutorials to point me in the direction of? Let me know below!

Eek! My first post - Simplicity 1717 - A-line Skirt

My first post on the blog. And my first ever clothes pattern.

Way back in July I headed to my local sewing shop - The Sewing Cafe in Hinckley, Leicestershire, for hour of uninterrupted 'me' time immersed in beautiful fabric, buttons, sewing patterns and great service. I came away very happy and with a new pattern for a skirt and of course the fabric and notions to complete it. Something for a beginner to the clothes making world - Simplicity 1717 View C an A-line skirt with oversize patch pockets.

I absolutely love the results and thoroughly enjoy wearing the skirt, it fits as perfectly as one would imagine made-to-measure clothes should. I finished making it in August in time for a holiday in Spain. But this is such a versatile skirt; I'm now enjoying wearing it with my tights in Autumn - score!

The fabric I chose has a small floral pattern and reminded me of the print on a skirt I had from M&S when I was about 11. I loved that skirt; it was a long A-line style with floaty, floral fabric and buttons down the front. When I got too tall for it my mum shortened it, giving me, and then my sister, an extra few years wear out of it. The fabric I selected for this pattern  has a slight stretch in it, which is forgiving, and it doesn't crease too easily.

Whilst I enjoy wearing it, I can't say I totally loved making it. I made a few 'school-girl' errors - which left me feeling annoyed at myself, and at times I was ready to chuck it, buy some more fabric and re-start! But, I persevered and managed to overcome the mistakes and think the overall result is great - phew!

The main error I made was finding my pattern size! Now, I do know that patterns can be a bit notorious when it comes to sizing; they often don't match up to shop bought sizes; vary from company to company; and in one pattern you may have to 'grade' your sizes. And it seams that my measurements do not correspond directly to 'one' size on this pattern, varying from an 18, to a 10! This being my first pattern, and me being a teensy bit nervous, I cut the pattern and fabric to a larger size than I should have and after sewing the two front and two back pieces together I realised that it was going to be a bit on the large side!

I should have realised that the ease in the garment was too great, and worked out a size to cut using this as a guide - Tilly and the Buttons has an excellent post about this issue here which helped me immensely. Feeling more confident, I decided to cut the already cut and half-sewn fabric to a smaller size! EEKKK! This was a 'lil bit tricky, but totally doable. I lined up the notches and the outer edge and cut the pattern paper at the same time as the fabric with a rotary cutter and ruler (going very slowly obvs!). I then continued making up the skirt as instructed, even if this meant I'd now cut it a little too small around the waist (opps - you live and learn!) - I managed with 5mm seams here! It's an Amazing Fit pattern, the idea being that you baste the front and back together, try on with the basted on yolk and then adjust. Well I clearly did quite a bit of adjusting (and swearing having to use the seam ripper - again!), and eventually took the sides in by an inch or so at my hips on both sides too to get a little bit more of a fitted look. the extra adjusting meant that the facing was a little large inside, having made the whole garment up by this stage I wasn't prepared to unpick again, so settled on a small tuck made at the side seams as below.

Apart from the pattern sizing issues, and the problems this caused, I will be using the pattern again as the finished skirt is a great addition to my wardrobe. Lesson learned here - I'm definitely making a muslin one up next time, just to be sure! And I'm thinking a colourful corduroy one maybe?